I will be trying a new (for me) method in the new year as soon as I can propagate enough ficus via cuttings.
From now on I’m going to make a point to only use identical genetic material in each fusion project. I’ll probably use a seed warming mat and try to root microcarpa cuttings in water as I’ve done before.
Anyhow, I searched for a while to find a cone-shaped, solid wood base to serve as the shape of a future tree. You’d never think such a thing would be so difficult to find. I plan to use small finish nails this time as another enthusiast demonstrates in his blog.
I’m also going to screw the cone to a tile from underneath. I should be able to develop an awesome nebari from the very start this way.
Excited for the project. Stay tuned ….
Not sure why this is the first year that my maple tree(s) are exhibiting fall leaf color, but it’s nice to see reds and other colors instead of brown.
Do you have any hints to bring about more fall color in your maples?
My first Trident fusion “tree” began on January 1, 2011.
I planted it in the ground (raised garden bed) this past spring, and now (December 1, 2013) it’s 8′ tall. I haven’t pruned this tree at all, ever. There has been some good fusion on the front side, but obvious gaps elsewhere due to dead seedlings and lack of light received by the rear branches.
I plan to pull the tree in the late winter/early spring and place in a large RootMaker pot. This should allow better overall growth as I’ll be able to rotate throughout the growing season. I’ll also start some air layers in order to have material to fill the gaps. There are several branches that need to be removed, as they have fused fully and keeping them will only result in bigger scars.
I wrapped up the branches a couple weeks ago to make the tree easier to move in the spring. I was concerned about the branches lignifying and breaking.